One of my favorite months in Rome is right around the corner. November is the month a lot of people skip, and honestly, that's their loss. From our past experience, the weather in November has been very nice. The crowds thin out, the light goes soft and gold, and the city does things it only does this time of year.
Romans visit their family graves for All Souls. The new olive oil comes out of the presses, bright green and peppery. The new wine is poured. Truffles come down from the mountains. And this year, the Roma Jazz Festival turns 50.
I'm home in Utah right now with family, and Kim and I will be back in Rome in mid November. Here are the things I'd plan a November trip around, the ones you can only really do this month.
First, a quick word on strikes
Before any of the fun, a practical note. Italy has a national strike calendar, and November has dates on it, including November 20 and 21. A transport strike can stop buses, the metro and trams for most of the day. In Rome, service is usually guaranteed only in protected time bands, typically from the start of service to 8:30 and again from 17:00 to 20:00.
My advice is simple. Check the official strike calendar a few days before you go, have a backup plan, and if a strike hits, enjoy the neighborhood around your hotel on foot. If you see a large protest gathering, for example at Piazza dei Cinquecento in front of Termini, stay clear of it. Most days you'll never notice anything, but it pays to know.
November 1: All Saints and a free museum day
All Saints Day is a national holiday in Italy. In 2026 it falls on a Sunday. A few restaurants may close, but for the most part everything stays open.
The good news is that it is also the first Sunday of the month, so state museums and sites are free, including the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and the Palatine. Rome's city museums, like the Capitoline Museums and Trajan's Markets, are free for everyone that day too. You can't buy these free tickets in advance. You get in line, pick up your ticket at the ticket office, and go through security. The Colosseum park is open 8:30 to 16:30 in winter, with last entry at 15:30, so go early.
My picks for a free day are the Roman Forum, the Baths of Caracalla, Castel Sant'Angelo and Trajan's Markets. They're big, beautiful and a little less of a crush than the Colosseum itself.
November 4: another free Colosseum day
Wednesday, November 4, is the Day of National Unity and the Armed Forces. It's not a public holiday, so shops are open, but the Colosseum and other state sites are free again. Same rules: no advance booking, tickets at the ticket office in order of arrival. The Colosseum park notes that the arena floor and the underground are not included on free days. City run museums like the Capitolini and Trajan's Markets are not part of this one, so check before you go.
Being a weekday, it tends to be calmer than the Sunday.
November 2: All Souls at the Verano cemetery
If you're in Rome on All Souls Day, Monday, November 2, don't miss the chance to visit the Verano cemetery near San Lorenzo. Almost every Italian family visits its cemetery on this day, and it is moving to see. The Verano is huge, so there's a free shuttle that loops through it with 21 stops. In winter the shuttle runs every 30 minutes, 8:00 to 12:30 and 14:30 to 17:00. The cemetery itself is open 7:30 to 18:00, with last entry at 17:00.
Please be respectful. These are families visiting their loved ones, so keep your voice low and your camera discreet.
November 2: the once a year crypt on Tiber Island
This is one of the most unusual evenings in Rome, and very few visitors know about it.
For centuries, a brotherhood known for its red hooded robes, the Sacconi Rossi, recovered bodies that washed up along the Tiber. If no one claimed them, the brothers gave them a proper burial, many in a small crypt on Tiber Island. On All Souls, a Mass is held around sunset, about 17:00, at the church of San Giovanni Calibita on the island. It lasts around 30 minutes. Then you walk down to the river with the group, carrying candles, and a wreath of flowers goes into the water in memory of those who were lost. Right after, the crypt opens, for about an hour, the only time it opens all year.
Get to Tiber Island by 17:00. It's a small crowd, not thousands of people. Dress warmly, and know that photos are not allowed inside the crypt.
November 1 to 24: the 50th Roma Jazz Festival
November 1 kicks off the 50th Roma Jazz Festival. The opening night is Paolo Fresu on Sunday, November 1, at 18:00, and the program runs to November 24 with concerts most evenings. You'll find the full lineup and tickets on the festival program page. A concert is a lovely way to spend a November evening, especially if it rains.
New olive oil, new wine and truffles
November is harvest month. The new wine, vino novello, goes on sale from October 30. The new olive oil comes out of the presses, and the hill towns around Rome celebrate it. Truffle festivals pop up in the mountains. In the video description I listed several of these, including the Vignanello oil and new wine festival (November 6 to 8 and 13 to 15), the Campoli Appennino truffle festival (November 7 and 8, 14 and 15), the Montelibretti new oil festival (November 14 and 15) and the Canino olive festival (November 27 to December 8). Dates for small town festivals can shift, so check each one before you go.
Two walks I love in November
It's Rome's fall season, and many of the trees turn from green to golden yellow. It's a beautiful time for a walk in the park, and here are my two favorites.
Villa Borghese. It's right off the metro near Piazza del Popolo. You can rent bikes or little buggies, or just walk and enjoy the leaves turning. It's so much fun, especially in November.
Aqueduct Park. I've talked about the Parco degli Acquedotti in other videos. It's easy to reach, and this time of year the light on the old arches is gorgeous. If you get the chance, take the walk.
Keep up with Rome day by day
Our Facebook group is now called Today in Rome. Every morning, very early Rome time, we post what's happening that day. If you're in Rome, it's a great way to find events that might interest you. You can also follow along on Instagram.
If November is your first trip, a few other posts may help. My notes on Sundays in Rome cover what changes on the first Sunday. My list of free things to do in Rome pairs well with the free days above. And before a busy free day, read my guide to common Rome scams.
You might get some rain here and there, but overall I think you'll be happy you chose November.
FAQ
Is the Colosseum free in November 2026? Yes, on Sunday, November 1, and Wednesday, November 4. You can't book ahead. Tickets are handed out at the ticket office in order of arrival.
Is All Souls Day a holiday in Rome? No. November 2 is not a public holiday, so shops and museums keep normal hours. November 1, All Saints, is the national holiday.
What time is the Sacconi Rossi crypt opening? The Mass at San Giovanni Calibita on Tiber Island is around sunset, about 17:00 on November 2. The crypt opens for about an hour after the procession. Exact times aren't always posted, so arrive early.
When is the Roma Jazz Festival 2026? November 1 to 24, 2026, for its 50th edition.
Is November a good month to visit Rome? For us, yes. Fewer crowds, soft light and seasonal food. Bring an umbrella, and check the strike calendar before you go.
Plan your own November trip
If you'd like help planning your own trip, the Rome Travel Guida is a video guide, interactive maps with our favorite hotels, gelato, panini and more, and a helpful PDF. Watch only what you need.
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