For years, Line C was the train to nowhere for visitors. It served Roman neighborhoods, but it didn't connect well with the rest of the city, so most travelers never used it. That changed when the new stations opened at the Colosseum and Porta Metronia. Now Line C is an easy ride out to the Rome most tourists never see.
Kim and I rode it stop by stop to find the markets, pastry shops and simple, honest meals that make these neighborhoods special. There isn't much of the shine and shimmer of the historic center out here, but it more than makes up for it in personality and friendliness.
How to Ride Rome Metro C
Where to board. If you're on Line B, hop off at Colosseo and transfer to Line C at the new Colosseo/Fori Imperiali station. If you're on Line A, change at San Giovanni. Both transfers are simple.
Tickets. A standard BIT ticket costs €1.50 and is good for 100 minutes, including one metro ride plus buses and trams.
Tap and Go. You can skip the ticket machine and just tap your contactless card or phone at the gates. Each ride is charged at €1.50, and the daily total is capped at €8.50, the price of a 24 hour ticket. Use the same card every time so the cap works.
If you'd like more help getting around calmly, our post on [Rome without the stress]and our [27 Rome tips, advice and warnings] are good companions to this ride.
Porta Metronia
From the Colosseum, Porta Metronia is only a three or four minute ride. Right outside the station there's a really nice grocery store. If you're staying near the Colosseum, this is worth knowing, because many grocery stores in the center are small and a bit expensive. Here you'll find a great selection.
It's also a short walk from Porta Metronia to the Basilica of St. John Lateran.
San Giovanni
San Giovanni is where you'll find the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano, one of the most impressive basilicas in Rome. You can see Rome's oldest obelisk and the baptistery, and across the street are the Holy Stairs. Even outside of a Jubilee year, it's a must see. For more of the city's big sights, see our [Sites of Rome](https://www.rometravelguida.com/sites-of-rome) page.
Lodi
A real Roman open market
Just outside the Lodi station exit is one of the more authentic outdoor markets in Rome. You may have heard of Campo de' Fiori. It's one of Rome's oldest markets, but it's very touristy and caters to visitors. This market caters to Romans.
I'd say there are 50 or 60 vendors selling fruits, vegetables, clothing and much more, and everything is much cheaper than Campo de' Fiori. It runs every day except Sunday, from early in the morning until about 14:00.
Gastromario
Within about 100 meters of the Lodi station is Gastromario, a pasticceria that honestly treated us like kings. They gave us extra things to try and didn't charge us for them. We had panettone, some little croissant pastries and cappuccino, and they bake it all right there. The chocolate panettone was one of the best I've ever had. Panettone is a Christmas treat, and we caught the last of it in January. It's one of the best pastry shops I've been to in Rome.
Negozio dell'Usato
Just steps from the station is a secondhand shop. In Rome, used goods are often pricey, but this one is much more reasonable. Not cheap cheap, but fair. You'll find jewelry, clothing, pots, pans, glasses and one of a kind things. Kim couldn't leave without a few treasures: rings for €4.50, €5 and €7, a little jewelry case for €5, a bracelet for €5, and her best find, a vintage cameo for €22.
A Video Guide for the Rest of Your Trip
If you like finding places like these, the Rome Travel Guida was made for you. It's a video guide, interactive maps with our favorite hotels, gelato, panini and more, and a helpful PDF, to help you make the most of Rome while you're there. Watch only what you need.
Pigneto
Pigneto is a fun neighborhood to explore, with lots of great food. We mention it in our [Rome in October 2026](https://www.rometravelguida.com/blog/rome-in-october-2026-events-and-things-to-do-this-month) post too.
Da Mario Pigneto: a €10 lunch
Not far from the station is Da Mario, and it was one of my favorite lunches in Rome in a long time. The menu was €10 flat. It included bruschetta with lots of tomatoes, a pasta (I had the gricia, with plenty of guanciale), a soft drink or water, and a coffee at the end if you want it. No service fee. It was cheap, but more than that, it was fantastic.
Pigneto is the real Roman place to grab lunch or dinner.
Koreamor
About 100 meters from the station is a Korean restaurant called Koreamor. Sometimes you want something different, even in Rome. The food was fresh and perfectly spiced, not too hot. I had the soup and we shared two kinds of chicken. Dishes were around €14 each, with generous portions, and the chef, his wife and our server were very kind.
A late night maritozzo
A short walk from the station is a pastry shop that makes maritozzi, the soft buns filled with cream, fresh every day. The catch is that it opens only in the evening, after 19:00, and closes around 1:00 or 2:00 depending on the day. Perfect if you want something sweet late at night.
A classic Roman maritozzo
Malatesta
Corsetti: the €2 tramezzini
Right outside the Malatesta station is Corsetti, and this place was buzzing. Tramezzini are triangle sandwiches you'll see in bars and grocery stores all over Rome, usually just filler food. Not here. They cost around €2 to €2.50 each, there are at least a dozen kinds, and you can have them toasted for a little crunch. Kim had egg and tomato, and I had tuna and artichoke, grilled. I've had them all over Rome, and none were this good.
A neighborhood pizzeria
Also very close to the Malatesta station is a small pizzeria that's very popular with locals. It's super inexpensive, but don't let that fool you. The pizza was fantastic, with tons of choices. There are a handful of tables inside, or you can take it to go.
Teano
180 Grammi
About a seven or eight minute walk from the Teano station is 180 Grammi, a Roman style pizzeria. Roman pizza is much thinner than Neapolitan. I had the margherita, fresh with lots of basil, and the place was full of people enjoying dinner. If you want to eat Roman pizza while you're here, and I recommend you do, there's no place better in my opinion.
180 Grammi, the perfect Roman pizza
Gardenie
One last stop for the pickleball players. About a 10 minute walk from Gardenie station is a pickleball club with four indoor courts and open play on certain days. Call ahead.
Rome Metro C FAQ
Where can I catch Metro C from the center?
At Colosseo/Fori Imperiali, where it connects with Line B, or at San Giovanni, where it connects with Line A.
How much does a ride cost?
A BIT ticket is €1.50 for 100 minutes. With Tap and Go, each ride is €1.50 and you never pay more than €8.50 in a day.
Is it worth leaving the historic center to ride Line C?
If you want to see how Romans live, shop and eat, yes. The markets and food are a real treat, and the prices are lower than in the center.
Is it a good area to stay?
These neighborhoods are wonderful to visit, but for most travelers over 50 we still suggest staying closer to the center. Our post on [where not to stay in Rome](https://www.rometravelguida.com/blog/where-not-to-stay-in-rome-over-50) explains why.
Make the Most of Rome
There's so much more of Rome to discover, just a metro ride away. If you want our favorite places on interactive maps and short videos you can watch on the go, the Guida is ready when you are. And come say hello in our Facebook group, Today in Rome.
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